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Showing posts with label ethnic trends. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ethnic trends. Show all posts

Wednesday, 14 April 2010

African Child: The New Tribal Chic

My trip to Ghana in 2008 left me with an indelible love for African prints. I felt that I had come home- my love of loud bright colours and matching hues that sometimes felt attention-seeking on the streets of London and Paris came to life. Like old indigenous spirits, these prints winked at me, they walked and talked to me on the streets of Accra. I have to admit that I spent most of my pocket money on fabric. And local art. (Although not as much as my friend Steph who shipped two heavy couches weighing sixty tons back to Canada!) Half a yard of the buzzing green and striking yellow here at Makola Market. Two yards of the chocolate brown with chain imprints at Kaneshie. A quarter of a yard for a gele. It was as if I had finally come home. Not for me Nigerian hollandaise lace. I loved the kente prints and haggled with the market traders for them. The girls who shared my house had a similar love and we gleefully compared fabrics, lovingly delivered them to seamstresses (little more than teenage girls with good hands and a keen eye), wanting more of this and more of that. These prints were individual and fun and laden with meaning. How often does one wear meaningful clothes that perform a literary function? The first bit of fabric I picked- white and black and generously speckled with silver was called "My Daughter is Abroad, She is Doing Well". I bought it immediately.

This was a country where there were colours and prints for mourning, colours and prints for marriage, colours and prints for joy and celebration, colours and prints for sorrow and distress, a veritable minefield for art historians, designers and yes, fashionistas.

I was therefore particularly thrilled when I saw African fashion being channelled into the mainstream by major brands like Vivienne Westwood, Balenciaga and D&G. When Chanel Iman walked the catwalk at African Fashion Week wearing these designs, it was as if she was doing what they she was born to do. I was not surprised that these designs have infiltrated into the mainstream as I have long suspected that tribal accents and ethnic fusion are natural extensions of nu-boho when gypsy-chic has been overdone. It also helps that the prints flatter round behinds, full breasts and wide hips.

I knew that the trend was smoking when I opened the Daily Mail (probably the most anti developing world tabloid in the UK) and saw an British ladette at Aintree, done up to the nines rocking a yellow and white ASOS Africa shift. Websites like africhic.com and ololade.com have made it more accessible to obtain motherland fashion that is different, yet still trendy, relevant, and sexy. Dorothy Perkins sent me an email today asking me to trial new “tribal” (I am still not sure how I feel about the word tribal to define the trend). Initiatives that combine social responsibility like ASOS Africa (all the clothes are made by a women's collective in Kenya) are laudable. It is my hope that our own UK designers such as my favourite designer Nkwo and Amechie Ihenacho will benefit. I am also hoping that this trend will not be a passing fad, and that it will reinvent itself each season because at the moment, it is fierce and fabulous and I love it!

These are my top 10 picks of the season. They are mostly dresses- nothing says lady like a stunning dress!


Olalade.com. Cream shrunk 50's dress 60 pounds.
I love the asymmetric bell sleeves, the length makes it contemporary and the print is divine!


Forever Unique at Asos.com
Forever Unique is one of my favourite brands. This simple white dress is a great colour for summer - the detailed appliqued collar is all it needs.  A banging partylicious winner!150 pounds.

The maxidress never goes out of fashion and Mango does this Caribbean tie-dye one in denim and powder blue. Very holiday friendly!
£60






Missibaba at africhic.com
Buttery leather and suede in a subdued but winning print!
£400.


The perfect sundress for that barbecue summer. Rich prints that would look great on any skin!
Asos.com £30

A chick has to have one lust item ok?
Christian Dior sandals. Price on request.


Printed Bolero by Amechi Ihenacho. Price on request.
This would look great to enliven my many black dresses!



Printed Playsuit by AsosAfrica. Proceeds to help empowering women in Kenya.This playsuit reminds me of childhood- it is fun and cute, will look great with some oversized shades and stonking heels!
£50


Who says ethical fashion needs to be expensive? This beaded necklace is an intricate stunner.
Tribalmango.com
£10 people! A steal. You have no excuse to buy the imitation piece at Primark!





Another Olalede creation. £79
I have a feeling you will be seeing someone wearing this very soon!

Aren't these all so strikingly pretty?

Thursday, 1 April 2010

Open Letter to Jill Scott: "Is Beige the New Black"?

(Pic from www.babble.com. All rights reserved).

Dear Jill,

Your unique fusion of afrobeat-cum-spoken-word-cum-soulrnb on jazz on "Who is Jill Scott? Words and Sounds Volume 1?" made my heart at once leap and skip, who was this sage who made this nu-music? You inspired my foray into spoken word as I followed you on your journey with "Beautifully Human" and the "The Real Thing"; I heard the love vibrating through your guitar on "He Loves Me", written for your wedding day, your pain was my pain as you sang through your divorce (and I sang through my break-ups) and you didn't know this but we celebrated together (me, in my flat with a glass of red wine, you on the stage in Carnegie Hall) when we both found love again.

I was eager to read your piece in Essence magazine especially when I was told that you went "there". There meaning a favourite conversation piece. I call it WAWWSOM- Why Are White Women Stealing Our Men? Some people thought the article was racist in a world that is post racial, some were of the ilk that wanted to sit around a fire and sing kumbaya- "the world is a happy place, we all love each other, isn't that great?" and they attempted to dismiss your opinion as one without historical, collective, or even intellectual merit. I won't do so and although I love you and recognise your feelings as valid, I must admit that I do not feel the same way you do because I think your opinion piece generalises and stereotypes the experience of all black women and all black men who choose to date white.

Jill, my essential tenet and starting point is that human beings are free to love who they please. We are lucky to be born with choice and freedom in our parts of the world. Isn't it great that we are able to pick our life partner based on any criteria we wish? I believe in absolute freedom. Love is a beautiful thing and when we find it in unexpected places it can be amazing and make you do crazy things- like sing all those sappy cheesy Celine Dion songs about strength when weak and lifting up when we couldn't reach. I am an equal opportunities lover and would love anyone who loves me back :) To those human beings that genuinely find love between races, across cultures, straddling oceans and mountains of social, economic and racial divide; I am genuinely happy and pleased for you. I smile for you and welcome your family into our family; I welcome the mélange of your culture with our culture with open arms. Black men don't owe black women anything except respect.

I am grateful for this proposition I live, Jill, when I read about brides who have to marry men their parents chose: their choice is sometimes between an unwanted arrangement or death. They do not have the opportunity to test the waters, to know their lovers, to let their fingers linger on the small of their backs, to hold hands at the movies, to share private jokes: they are resigned to falling in love with a person that they may not like or to live unhappily ever after. I am glad that religion nor caste nor province dictates my choice. I am happy that we are no longer living in the 1960's where black men got lynched for dating white women, and white men had to date a black nanny on the side.

This feeling of openness however, is hard to square and reconcile with my feeling of obligation to community. With the feeling of example. That we need strong black families raising strong black children, Will-and-Jada families, Michelle-and-Barack-families, instead of broken black families, single parent black families, drug dealing black families, children-heading abusive black families. It was only when I started writing this article Jill, that it became clearer to me what I really believed- upon an honest, open, critical examination of my beliefs, and surprisingly my fears.

Jill, I realised that there are three types of black men who date interracially that I have found that I and other black women do not like. And although it is not for us to approve or disprove of other relationships, black women do more than wince. It is more like a twist of the lips and a cut of the eye. I do not like what I call the Crushers, the Choppers and the Blenders.

Crushers crush black women. They are the men who make a deliberate choice not to date black women because its too much “aggro”. If I lost a hair for every man I heard say that they are through with black girls because they have "attitude", like "drama" and are "weave-wearing"/"angry"/"aggressive"/"eruptive"/"paycheque-spending"/"uncultured"/"divas" (choose one), I would be as bald as Naomi Campbell and with an attitude makes me want to turn into a finger wagging Shanaynaye. Not because of the bullshit psychological rationale about past collective pain we experienced  (can we move on already?) and all these intellectual reasons that you spouted, but because we are being stereotyped and generalised by the very people who are supposed to know and understand us best. I want to say to these Crushers: Have you met every single black woman in the world? Because I have met docile black women, and assertive black women, honey coloured, caramel, blue black, matchstick thin, cuddly, museum loving, club hopping- we come in all shapes, sizes, hues and dispositions. Moreover, if the girls you are meeting are all like the negative things you describe, that says something rather peculiar about your social group.

Then there are the Choppers. These are the fetish hunters- they want to chop some "other" booty down, they are after some unfamiliar tail. You see their ads on Craig’s List and Gumtree. These Tigerwoodsian men post listings that are so generic and predictable- "black man, well hung, looking for blonde single girl for fun and good times". These men on first glance appear open and fun, but I actually think that these men are more racist and sexist that any of the other types because their interracial interaction is rooted in images of Mandingoland and they are happy to conform to the image of the black man as a centaur; man-horse and sexual aggressor. By casting themselves in this role, it is almost as if they wish to wreak some form of sick avenge for sins of the past.

Then Jill, there are the Blenders. These are the men who suffer from post colonial self negation and wish for the family and children with "fair skin" "pretty features" "nice hair" and a "straight nose". They wish to neutralise their black features until it is almost erased because their noses are not straight enough, their hair is too nappy and their skin too dark and ashy. I have been told that I should be a Blender so many times by older women in the Caribbean- "find ah nice white man and make some pretty colour children eh darling" but I do not expect it in a modern man.  Some Crushers ultimately become Blenders. I have a problem with Blenders because I really believe black is beautiful. There is nothing wrong with black. We do not need to neutralise, mix up, and dilute our features to conform to any societal standard.

So these are the black men I don't like and for the record, I don't like the women Blenders, Crushers and Choppers either. So I would probably not see eye to eye with the women who join the facebook group "I love white men" (huh? when did the colour of someone's skin matter more than the content of their character?"), the girl who says "I am through with black men, most of them sell drugs, smoke weed and don't have a job" or the Trinidadian chick who marries Indian so she can have "nice dougla children". The weird thing is that most people don't know that they are Choppers, Blenders or Crushers; these feelings lie subterraneously.

Jill, the assimilationists tell us that all this talk this is trivial and irrelevant and we should not worry about interracial-ness. However I think this should be discussed because I think our anger may be born of fear. According to the UK statistics, 80% of black men would happily marry outside of their race. Only 20% of white men would. This means that there is a loophole for little black girls- if the majority of black men love white women and the majority of white men love white women, who are dating us?

The magazines and televisions tell us that we are not at the top of the universally accepted standards of beauty and the very men who are meant to "get" that our lips are just a smidgen fuller, our textured hair tougher, our nose just a little bit wider, appear to be also rooting for the away team. We feel therefore that our pool is getting smaller and smaller and may I suggest our anger is not historical, but territorial? This is exacerbated when the 80% of these black men who wouldn't mind dating anyone appear to be the upwardly mobile, successful, god-fearing men who love their mothers. A part of us screams that if these men, whose mothers we resemble, don't prefer us, who will?

Black women are also often fearful of mixing. My boyfriend asked me to debate this question “Is assimilation a form of cultural genocide?” and I was for once, stumped. We are guardians of our homes and family lives and perhaps by extension, we see ourselves as guardians of our culture. However, we cannot lead ourselves into the realms of Nick Griffin who categorically thinks mixing is destructive of human cultures to mask fear of that which we are not familiar, hiding under the pretext of deculturisation (because culture is a way of life that is fluid and malleable).

Jill, my friends and I used to feel like you did at university. We winced because there were probably ten eligible black boys in Cambridge and they all (with the exception of one) did not date black girls. So the choice was effectively made for us. Those of us who stopped looking for the “good black man” and looked simply for a good man found love. I found a gay best friend! The experience taught me that when we are happy and comfortable in our own selves, we do not even notice the black man walking past with whatever woman of whatever colour.

Just sayin'